valerie wrote: The old water heater worked fine. The key word in that sentence is 'old'.
Yeah some GOOD quality more expensive water heaters can last a very long time, but the insurance company scammers want you to change them every 10 years even if they are like new and no signs of rusting. Some tanks come with 2 anode rods, in fact, if your rods are not all chewed up, instead of changing the whole bloody tank, you can change the rods, since those are the ones that get corroded first, and only once they are worn down, will the actual tank itself start to rust, and those rods are not expensive.......BUT many home owners here are forced by their home insurance company to fully replace the tank every 10 years no matter what the condition is. RIDICULOUS.
A well maintained tank can last well beyond 10. Some can last 15-25 years or more. Few people maintain them or flush them yearly. Problem is, removing the anode rods is a pain in the arsehole some are sealed shut and tight, and if you manage to remove it, you will not get the same perfect water seal as you did with the original.
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If I had known all I needed was some pies, I would have gladly baked a few. ahahahahaha
I accept blueberry or cherry pies.
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I sold my new home a few months ago and downsized to an older home. I've been doing some upgrades. The water heater was 12 years old. That's about the standard life span of a water heater over here. It's possible it could have lasted longer. A well known plumbing biz 'Roto-Rooter' quoted at $1,729.00. I went with a local small family plumbing biz and paid $1,158.00. That's for the new water heater, pan, install, everything.
Roto-rooter is a rip-off. and $1,158 including tax too ? That's OK, you could have done better had you selected and purchased your own water tank and only paid for the install. Watch out, some plumbers will bring you brands / models that are not top quality, and so in that case you did not get a good deal. If you were to go to the hardware store and choose your own quality and have it delivered, you would have saved an extra $200-$300.
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Water heaters are somewhat complicated. I have an electric water heater. A gas water heater involves much more work.
Same, electric........ Some people assuming that the tanks last 10-12 years, but the best way to know for sure the state of your water heater is look for rust spots outside the tank, smelly hot water or completely worn out sacrificial rods, unfortunately, you cannot remove the rods on your own unless you have special tools for that (and remembering to empty the tank a little and shut off the cold water valve
So most people say F it, and just change the whole thing.
Life span can vary based on use and water quality in your area, the more you use hot water, the more fresh water comes in, accelerating corrosion. Without sacrificial rods, your tank would rust in no time. The whole business is a SHAM, you would think that in 2024 they would have enough technology to build better tanks with thicker more resistant structure that could last well beyond 10 years.....but no, it's a business, they make those in a way you are forced to buy new ones .......just like cars and everything else.
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Australia, the plumbing may be different for faucet connections. Over here, I would simply turn the water connection off, remove the old faucets, remove the water lines from under the sink, screw/replace with the new water lines under the sink, attached to the new faucets, and turn the water back on. Normally you will have cut offs under the sinks to turn the water off to that sink. That would be in the form of a handle or a knob that you either flip up or down or turn left or right to disconnect and connect the water flow. I've used a hole saw to cut out additional holes for at the sink when needed such as for dishwasher, sprayer, or soap dispenser. Changing out faucets in sinks, is very easy. The problem might come into play if it is a shower/bath faucet without a good access panel and no shut offs.....you'd have to shut the water off at the main.
Problem is, many home owners do not exercise their valves, they end up in the same position for so many years and once you need to use them, they can start to leak, that's another issue too. Some older homes have very old type of valves (the round knobs) those are the worst and they tend to leak.
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You may have forgotten, my husband was a contractor. He built houses. We built our own house. I learned a lot from him over the years. Altho he was not a licensed plumber, he could install water heaters. Altho he wasn't a licensed electrician, he could run wires. In the USA many States require a license for work such as water heater installation and electrical wiring. He did the work when we built our house and simply had a licensed plumber and licensed electrician approve the work.
I can do work and not licensed electrician, etc, BUT here, insurance companies require the work to be done by a licensed worker, and believe me the jobs done by those licensed worker are not always up to par, in fact some are horrible. For electricity, it is not all that complicated if you can understand the basics of ow it works, and the right gauge wires that go with the amperage you use, but one of the most important aspects, CODE, electrical work has to be done up to CODE (NEC)....if you live in a house, it is almost 100% guaranteed you will find SOMETHING that is not up to code, even in new homes, even when the work was done by qualified plumbers or electricians. I have seen this myself and it's scary.
But having the work done yourself and having licensed workers just come to inspect, that's news to me, how much do they charge you for that ? I don't know much contractor that will accept to just come and do this - they are in the business of doing jobs not approving DIYers work, if they did, they would be out of business. Here you would have to pay $500-$600 for an inspection, BUT if anything happens (plumbing incident or electrical) and insurance companies are involved, they will find every bit of excuse to deny your claim - the first thing they ask is WHO did the job....Oh it was you the home owner, OH OK, denied. But wait, work was approved by a licensed contractor, WELL, approved, but not installed, so all insurance would be void here.
BUT some home owners secretly do work without declaring it, that can pass in some cases, but it can be a dead giveaway to an adjuster, especially if you replaced very old wires with new ones, and for plumbing jobs it's even more visible if something was installed fairly new.
Rewiring a house is not that complicated, neither is installing a new electrical panel, just get the right torque wrench, screw drivers, clamp and other testers and you are good to go........reading about the NEC codes is a must, I'm pretty sure a DYIer would be able to rewire an entire home here for under $1k including a new panel....instead of the up to $10k it would cost you otherwise.